Day 26 - Tanami - Alice Springs 3/8/18

Urgh that wind has not buggered off, cold horrible morning and no one is in the mood so we packed up and left.

Last day of the official trip today, Mum and Dad still have a few days before they get home but will spend a few days in Alice preparing for the rest of the journey. For us today is the last day of our adventure and it has been nothing short of amazing - we have seen so many incredible sights, done so many amazing things and just had an all over fantastic time.

There is currently a new gas pipeline being installed on the Tanami so there is some big work happening and lots and lots of traffic, the road has held up remarkably well considering the pure amount of traffic it is getting at the moment with the pipeline, the granite's and the tourists.

What no one expected to see was an Airport in the middle of nowhere, with not 1 but 2 737's sitting on the runway!!! incredible... I knew the place was busy but i never ever expected to see a full sized plane just sitting on the side of the Tanami. The airport consists of a few sheds and a massive runway which I guess is expected if you want to land a 737 out there and a carpark for a whole bunch of coaches to transport everyone where they need to go... took my breath away and talking to Mum and Dad they were gobsmacked too - it was really something.

We pulled into Yuendumu and found the fuel, also $2.60L and we were all actually doing ok for fuel so the decision was made that we wouldn't fuel up but would continue home and fuel up at Tilmouth Well.

Quick fuel stop at Tilmouth and hit the road with determination to get home.

We arrived home a bit after 5pm and had pizza on the table by 6pm. We are all happy to be home, back in civilisation and safe. What an absolutely incredible trip :)

Not an expected sight in the middle of nowhere

Day 25 - Wolfe Creek - Somewhere on the Tanami 2/8/18

We left at 9am this morning, another big day coming up.

We pulled into Billiluna for Fuel, we hadn't realised that they sold fuel so it was welcomed and we all made the decision to fuel up here rather than push it to Yuendumu, coz you never know.
The shop was shut between 9.30 and 10.30am for a community meeting so we sat around waiting until they reopened. The shop only sells fuel in 10L increments which must be pre paid before filling up, you guesstimate how much you think you will use, and pay then get a fuel card for a $5 deposit to swipe at the self serve bowser, if you don't use all of it, they refund you the difference, if you need more you go through the whole process again. We all decided that we would go with 30L which would ensure that we would get to Yuendumu. $2.60L for fuel, a few people lined up saw the price and drove out, certainly pay a premium in the middle of nowhere.

We reached the WA/NT border at 1pm and stopped for a lunch break and a photo.

There is an awfully powerful wind that has been following us most of the day, its very eerie, its moving that fast that it is actually picking up the dirt from the road and moving it in front of the car and its just hovering there.... ghost like before it finally just drops to the ground again, i haven't ever seen anything like it.

We called it quits at 4pm about 290kms from Yuendumu, we found a large clearing on the side of the road which had enough space for us all to set up camp and far enough off the side of the road. Mum and Dad were a while behind us and we were lucky we stopped when we did as they had decided they were driving until 4.30pm and then calling it a night where ever they were and we would just have to meet up tomorrow but they got to us.

There is an absolutely disgraceful wind, it must be about 70-80km/h, it whips the back of your legs with the dirt, its freezing cold and it is making camping very difficult tonight. Mum and Dad accidentally set their kitchen up facing the wind so they can't light their stove so its up to our little old kitchen to cook tea tonight but luckily we are just reheating pre-cooked meals so its  quick and easy dinner.

Dad decided to make a fire and put his fire wind guard to good use, i thought it was a silly idea and Mum wasn't thrilled either but the boys got it lit and had it going when dinner was served up but the sticks that we used were too green and it turned to smoke fairly quickly so we put it out.

The campers are getting whipped around in the wind like crazy, it is going to be a very restless, noisy night tonight. We packed everything up and put the things that can blow away under cars/trailers or packed away to prevent anything getting lost and then we called it a night - nothing else to do and the wind is driving everyone mad.

I woke at about midnight and went outside as I had decided watching the walls of the camper getting thrown around that there must be a massive storm coming, not a single cloud in sight, stars everywhere and the clearest night around just the wind.. I was grateful as I was starting to kick myself for not checking the weather at Halls Creek to ensure we weren't driving into a severe weather warning or something, but everything is fine.

Tomorrow we will be home, another long day expected but the thought of a hot shower, comfy bed, 4 walls to get away from the wind and hot pizza for dinner is making the trip tomorrow seem all worthwhile! :)

Old place on way into Wolfe Creek, Dad's decided its Mick's House

Wolfe Creek Crater

Panarama Shot of Crater

The Border

Day 24 - Bungle Bungles - Wolfe Creek 1/8/18

We left camp at 8:15am this morning after giving mum and dad a head start. Nice early start will help with such a big day too so hopefully it is uneventful.

We back tracked out of the bungle bungle entry and met mum and dad at the turn off, all went well and they should make it into Halls Creek without any issues. We didn't leave until 10.45am as our compressor decided to continually overheat when trying to pump up the tyres so we had to do one at a time and turn it off, let it cool down and go again - Dad needed to use our compressor as his isn't working so we had 12 tyres to pump up, it was slow going. We finally headed off ready to get the last of the fuel and water needed, this is now the last stop before Yuendumu so we need to be sure we are fully stocked and prepared for the next few days as there isn't anything out there.

We arrived at Halls Creek and were advised that the service station doesn't provide drinking water, only the visitor centre and you have to advise them how many litres you expect to use and pay $5 deposit to get the handle for the tap to even use it, very odd but also very essential for us.

1.40pm we turned onto the Tanami and arrived at Wolfe Creek at 4.15pm. Tanami is in great condition, far far better than the Gibb and some of the other roads we have been travelling on the last few weeks, we were able to sit on 100km/h for the most part and Mum and Dad were not far behind us so it was a really good day without any delays.

I had warned Mum and Dad that the entry to Wolfe Creek is its own kind of insane with how rough it is, it is only 8kms and can take hours, it was rough last time and there was no exception this time either. The first part of the track isn't too bad but by the time you cross the 2nd gate it is just impossible, we were all down to 5km/h just plodding, there is no escape, no better route, no way you can possibly get through them other than just slow right down and ride the corrugation waves.

Dad actually took a video of mum driving down the road, it is about a 30 second clip and in that time the car doesn't even pass dad standing on the side of the road, it is actually slower than walking pace except dad is standing still and the car is just walking over the corrugations, it is really really something else.

It was just going on nightfall by the time we set up camp, there are a few people here but not busy by any means, i wonder if its the idea of staying overnight at Wolfe Creek that keeps people away or if its just not as busy on the Tanami as it is up in the Kimberley... hmmm.

We had all just sat down for dinner when we could hear a car revving all the way into the campground on the corrugations, it sounded like it was having a hell of a time, when it got to the campground we found it was a little 2wd 2 door hatchback, chinese tourists, they did a few laps around the campground and through everyone's campsite, which made us wonder what on earth they were doing and they finally decided on setting up camp right ontop of our neighbouring camper... with all the space in the area it had us shaking our heads as to why they decided to camp on top another camper - I put it down to the fact that it was dark, late and they were scared to stay on their own away from company - just... in.... case HAHAHAHA.

Tomorrow we will go up to the crater and have a look, I wanted to do the walk down into the crater, we weren't able to do it last time and it looks facinating to be able to walk down into it and see the inside of this monseterous crater but the signage says that it is no longer recommended that the walk is done due to unsteady rocks and steep decent - being pregnant means I have the added concern of slipping so its counted out for me and Anthony would have Alexis on his back in the carrier and it means that its too high a risk for him as well so we will have to miss out of that.

All in all a very good but long day, ready to continue on the Tanami tomorrow, we will not get to any destination tomorrow, it will be a camp on the side of the road for the night but we will be one step closer to home.

Day 23 - Bungle Bungles 31/7/18

This morning Myself, Anthony, Dad and Alexis all left camp and headed up the road to the bungle bungles to do some of the walks. We didn't have much of a plan in place and there are so many walks that you can pretty well just start walking on one of the tracks and just keep going to see more if you wish or turn back if you have had enough.

Last visit Anthony and I did a number of the walks, my favourite being Cathedral Gorge, so this was a definite return visit today. There are several small walks and some larger ones and then some others that take hours and hours and hours, even overnight.

We started with the Domes Walk which is a nice easy 400m walk in along side and around the bungles and back to the car park, it does also then separate off to the Cathedral Gorge walk so we started there and then headed into Cathedral Gorge.

It is such a hot day, the sun is nasty today and everyone is feeling it - the walk doesn't provide a lot of shade and even though it isn't a hard or a long walk we all had a tough time but it was definitely worth the visit. Dad was in awe of how amazing the Bungles are - how can you not be, they are just so unique and such an amazing thing to be created from flood waters, yep flood waters, not even the ocean, just time and floods - incredible.

We left Cathedral Gorge and Alexis insisted on walking which was good because I really didn't have the strength to carry her but it made for a slow return back to the car park and by the time we were 60m off I was considering hiring a helicopter to get me back to the car! HAHA. We decided then and there that we wouldn't do anymore of the walks, it allowed us to see the pure beauty of the area and of the bungles and saw what we wanted to see, so we went back to camp.

When we arrived back at camp Mum had made lunch for everyone, and it was very welcome! Not long later dark clouds and wind rolled in and we wondered briefly if we would be greeted by rain.. It made for a lovely afternoon, everything nice and cool so we all went for an afternoon sleep, except for Anthony who decided he would head off on another on of the walks at the other end of the park - Homestead Valley Walk which is approx 2 hours.

He arrived back mid afternoon and said that he enjoyed it and it was a nice walk but doesn't have the same effect as walking through the bungles.

We all sat down and had a very real conversation of whether we continue on the dirt and take the Tanami Road home as planned or head backwards slightly and take bitumen home via Katherine, Mum and Dad are still having some issues on sections of the roads even after the new tyres and struts so this is the last chance we have to make a decision. Mum is over it which is to be expected but Dad wants to keep on as we had planned and put the new parts to use and finish the trip as we had organised so we will stay on the same itinerary as planned and tomorrow will head off to Wolfe Creek via Tanami.

The next few days are the biggest of the whole trip, long days, big kms, rough roads and not much time to stop and rest but we have all done exceptionally well and had fun too so we will keep on going.

Tonight we were grateful for dad's portable shower and hot water system, it allowed us all to have a wonderful shower and freshen up after a hot day before continuing on deeper into the middle of nowhere :)

Bungles 

Cathedral Gorge

Bungles 

View on the Homestead Valley Walk

Day 22 - Fitzroy Crossing - Bungle Bungles 30/7/18

Well after a fantastic night at Fitzroy Crossing with yummy food, a great camp ground, friendly kangaroos and a very comfy place, its time to keep going forwards.. Fitzroy River Lodge is highly recommended by all of us if you are ever passing through the area.

We left camp at 9am, although we are excited to continue onto the next place we don't have a lot of energy between us and it is hard to get going but we all battle through and hit the road.

We didn't have any issues at all this morning with the vehicles, batteries or campers which was a great change, hopefully it stays like this for the rest of the trip.

476km to do today and the 76km entry into the Bungle Bungles is known to be quite rough- although last time we passed through it was newly graded. Also the road is very windy and its hard to maintain one speed or get much past 60km/h but that's a blessing at the same time as it is one of the prettiest drives in, they ask you to allow 3 hours to drive in so we knew we needed to get going early this morning.

Easy going on the bitumen and nice to have a convoy again, when on the dirt roads you don't get to see much of each other or talk much on the radios as you need to sit with quite a distance between you so you can see.

2.50pm we pulled up at the entry of Purnululu National Park, the home of the Bungle Bungles and let air out of the tyres. We only got about 10kms up the road before pulling up and letting more air out of the tyres as the road was still a bit too rough.

4.30pm we pulled up at the visitor centre and waited for mum and dad who were only 15 minutes behind us. The visitor centre close at 4pm but I had already purchased an online camp site for all of us so it didn't matter, the rangers do nightly drive through checks in all of these camp grounds to  ensure everyone who is there, should be.

We arrived at the camp site at 5.20pm, the drive from the visitor centre to the camp ground is 10kms,  and were lucky enough to be passing by the sunset viewing area right on sunset so we quickly pulled up and took some photos and watched the amazing colours on the bungles before continuing on.

The campground at the bungles is set out nicely with a good amount of space between each camp site so you aren't camped on top of everyone and you can have some peace and quiet but they also have double sites so if you are travelling with a group you can still camp together, we chose one of these that backed onto a river, nice and spacious for us all to set up and still have room to move around.

The campground is quiet with only 5 or so other campers around. We chose to stay at the generator camp as the sites are known to be bigger, i am not sure how busy the other camp ground is as its another 10km or so down the road

Unfortunately you can't see the bungles from the campground so there isn't much to do apart from sit back, relax and enjoy the quiet.... which we didn't get much of with Alexis around hahaha.

Dad hadn't realised that the road was quite as windy and slow going as it was and it used a lot more fuel that he had anticipated, unfortunately when he fuelled up this morning the fuel bowser kept clicking on and off and we found tonight that the jerry can is 10L less than it should be... Quick calculation of how far it is back to Halls Creek from here and it was decided that Mum and Dad will leave early in the morning the day we leave, we can follow them out a while later and that way if they run out of fuel we can help if needed but it also means that they can just plod out back onto the highway and not use much fuel. Hopefully all will be good, my wish for no more drama wasn't heard but what's the fun of an adventure without a bit of chaos!!

Everyone enjoyed a nice quiet night, tomorrow we will go and see the bungles and do some of the walks which will be great.

Bungle Bungles at sunset

Day 21 - Broome - Fitzroy Crossing 29/7/18

This morning we decided we would all go to enjoy a cafe breakfast, our last spoil before hitting the road back into the unknown. We went to the BBC (Broome Boulevard Cafe) and they did the MOST AMAZING food, we all had very filling, delicious meals and then headed off to Fitzroy Crossing.

We arrived late afternoon and did not expect at all to drive into a little township, with phone reception and a gorgeous lodge resort style place that I had organised us to stay at, it was a bit fancy, very pretty surrounded by luscious green lawns and plants and high up on stilts overlooking the area, even the reception area made me feel a bit like I needed to go have a shower and get changed into clothes more decent for a hotel than a caravan park but they were very welcoming and we got settled in large campsites side by side each other without any issues.
Just before we went to find out campsite the lady at reception advised that they have an all you can eat roast buffet for dinner if we were interested, so we booked in for that - we were still in shock that we had walked into normality when we all expected just a pub and some dirt out the back.

This place is massive, the camping areas must be about 3 football oval areas in size and still tons of space for cabins, and a toilet block on top of a massive hill.

We went down for dinner and it was magical, it is set on a verandah up high overlooking the campground with fairy lights and candles everywhere, the weather is beautiful and the food was delicious - we were all a bit unsure at the start as there wasn't any soup or bread left when we walked in at 6:30pm and no sign or mention that anymore was going to come out so we all just went straight in for main meals and by the time we had finished that the soup and bread were out so we had dinner backwards, main then entree and then dessert. They had apple crumble and custard as well as different types of cakes and slices and some fruit. We all basically rolled back to camp HAHA.

On the walk back we were surrounded by HUNDREDS of kangaroos, its so natural in the caravan park that they all just roam around and eat and play, I tried to get a video as we were walking but it was just too dark to see but the entire grass area was just covered in roos, they all just stood still like statues scared of us, waiting to see what we would do but we just walked and watched.. Alexis was so excited and wanted to go near them but we kept our distance and left them alone.

Just before going to bed we had a visit from a local kangaroo, he was big and tame, i think he was looking for food, i wasnt sure how tame he was so i stayed a distance from him but close enough Alexis could say hello, about 5 minutes later some of our neighbours had seen him and come out to watch, they brought apple and he came right up to them and they were patting him so i took Alexis back over to have a close up meeting with him - she loved it.

We have had such a great time here, I wish we had of known what to expect and we could have organised to stay a few more days but sadly this trip its only an overnighter. Onto Bungle Bungles tomorrow.

Day 20 – Broome 28/8/18

Today Anthony, Dad and I all woke at 4am to watch the 1/100 Blood Moon Eclipse – sadly the cloud had come in overnight and we got very little visibility of the moon and certainly not enough to see the blood moon, at least we gave it a go, would have been good to see but can’t help the weather.

This morning Anthony, Alexis and I headed to Gantheaume Point to have a look, i had read that there are dinosaur footprints on the rocks and it is an amazing place to visit and see the rock formations that the ocean has created over time. We walked down and had a look, but the tide was high and the signage says you can only see the dinosaur prints in low tide but are not advised to go looking for them anyway, there was no way we would have seen them with the tide as high as it was. 

The rocks are incredible though, so unusual to just see the red red rocks surrounding the waters edge, stunning to look at and see the bluest water, reddest rock and whitest sand its a very pretty place to visit. We sat and watched the water rush up against the rock and spill into the air for a while, the force could be felt through all the rocks we were standing on and it was amazing to see.

Mum and Dad went to buy another new tyre for the back of the car to balance it out from the one that was put on the car at Ellenbrae and hopefully help even more for the comfort of the trip

Dad and Anthony replaced the struts in dads car which didn’t take too long and was painless so hopefully we are all good for the rest of the trip now.

When we did our Kimberley Trip last time, we met a couple Greg and Adele, we met them when we were stranded on the Great Central Road after huge rain and hail closed the roads and then ran into each other again at El Questro, we have remained in contact since and funnily enough are all travelling through the area at the same time again, this time around we are only able to catch up in Broome so we decided on lunch and it was lovely J

An easy afternoon and then we headed off the Town Beach at 5pm to find a spot at the viewing spot to see Staircase to the Moon and enjoy the markets. It was busy but we found a good spot to sit and watch although we had to make sure a few of us stayed put the whole time so no one took over our spot, its a bit dog eat dog for this event really. It was so fantastic to see the staircase to the moon, it was lovely and clear and lasted about 15 minutes. Sadly we all had trouble trying to get good photos, Anthony was the only one lucky enough to get some good shots after he played with the manual settings on his camera, at least we got some and we got to see it which is what matters.

Off to Fitzroy Crossing tomorrow, 400kms approx but all on sealed roads so easy trip.

Gantheaume Point

Staircase to the Moon 

Day 19 – Windjana Gorge – Broome 27/7/18

We left camp at 9am, we had to jump start Mum and Dad this morning as the battery in the car completely gave up, it took a few goes but we got it going and then we were all on our way, something else to look at while we are in Broome with parts available. 

Road is definitely an improvement from the start of the Gibb, it’s how we remember it from last time and its muchly welcomed by all of us, although the road conditions have just added to the wonderful adventure of this trip and whats a trip without a little excitement and drama!?

We called into Derby on the way and fuelled up, bought lunch and let Alexis have a play on the playground for a while as it has been weeks since she has even seen one let alone been able to play. 

We stopped by the Famous Prison Tree and got some photos and then headed into Broome.

We booked into the Vacation Village which is really nice although extremely busy, we were lucky that when we booked they had some medium sized sites available as the size of the small sites are just so tiny that it would have made setting up the 2 campers hard.

Dad was able to locate new struts for his car so went and picked them up straight away which is good. Anthony and Dad are going to replace them in the morning, much cheaper and quicker than trying to get into a mechanic with no notice. 

We all decided to take it easy tonight, delivery pizza for dinner and a hot shower and we all feel back to normal again.

End of the Gibb River Road!!! 

Derby Prison Boab Tree

Day 18 – Windjana Gorge (Visit to Tunnel Creek)

We waited until later in the morning before we left to Tunnel Creek, as it is all in a cave its freezing if you go too early in the morning and there are water crossings within the cave so best to wait until later in the day when you can warm up once you finish.

Dad was just in awe of the beauty and size of the cave, we all are. Its an incredible place to visit.

It was busy when we went but it worked out to be a blessing because when it came to the water crossings we were able to watch others before going in and find out where the shallow areas are.

At the end of the cave there is a water crossing, it looks quite deep and there is a local croc living in it – fresh water of course, but it is a bit intimidating and last time we visited we never made it across the water crossing at the end so we never got to see what is on the other side which was disappointing, this time we decided if it wasn’t too deep we were going over.

High thigh deep and cool but not freezing, we all waded through the water to the other side and it was such a good feeling to finish the walk. It takes you outside of the cave to an area covered by trees and there is a walking track along the bank of the water crossing, we followed it for a while but it didn’t have any markers and didn’t appear to lead anywhere so we turned back and spent our time enjoying the beauty of the cave.

On the way back to the campground we called in and saw the historic Lillilooma Police Station ruins, there isn’t much of it left and the remains are looking very frail and starting to tip over and collapse but it was good to see it.

Lazy afternoon, Anthony, Dad and Alexis took another stroll through the gorge this afternoon, why not when its so close and so beautiful.

We had a couple in a caravan parked next to us since we arrived yesterday and they have not once said hello or made any contact with us, in fact they actually sat with their backs to us. This afternoon we watched them walk around and invite everyone in a caravan ONLY  to a campfire catch up tonight, but anyone in the campground that was in a camper trailer or tent or car were ignored – it was definitely a little caravaner club thing going on, we all just laughed about it and had a great night around our fire enjoying the surroundings and each others company – there just isn’t room in this world for stupid behaviour like that when you are so far from any sort of civilisation.

Tomorrow we leave for Broome, everyone is looking forward to a bit of a city change for a few days, more so because we are out of beer, bread and coffee and Dad is desperate for parts for the car to make the rest of the trip bearable.

Day 17 – Silent Grove – Windjana Gorge 25/7/18

We headed off at 10am this morning and backtracked to Imintji to dump rubbish, when we pulled up at the tip we found a cow digging through the rubbish looking for something to eat – he didn’t look to impressed to see us interrupting his breakfast, such an odd place to find a cow LOL.

Quick stop to get coffees from the store as you don’t get many choices along here to get any sort of take away food so take it while you can.

100km drive to Windjana Gorge and finally the road is improving – someone said to us a while ago that the closer you get to Derby the better the road gets but we stopped believing that after having such a terrible time the last few days. We are all able to speed up a bit now and its a more comfortable ride. Firewood is scarce in this area, they are strict on not collecting once you turn into the gorge tracks as the animals inhabit the dead branches so you have to collect along the Gibb or not at all. 

We are unable to carry firewood but mum and dad can as they have the hard floor camper roof to store it on. Mum and dad were behind us so we thought we would find some wood and then leave it on the side of the road for them to collect, i called them over the radio and told them that it was there but Mum said when they got there a car in front had stopped to collect it. Battle of first in best dressed and we just helped them LOL oops.

We drove up a bit further and found a heap of wood that had been cut up ad collected but left on the side of the road, rather than leave it for mum and dad to get and risk losing it, we pulled up and waited for them – it worked out really well as the only other wood we could find was all rotted and no good to burn.

When we arrived at the campground we were greeted by an abusive, drunk trouble making aboriginal family who were screaming and causing trouble. It took half an hour and all rangers in the area to remove them from the campground – unfortunate that the police are so far away from areas like this. Either way they didn’t come back so that was good.

The ranges surrounding Windjana Gorge are just amazing, they are unlike any other range you will ever see and are so tall. Windjana is so different to anywhere else on the Gibb, they all have differences and are beautiful in their own way but Windjana is just so beautiful without the need for a waterfall and it makes it amazing to visit.

Dad, Anthony, Alexis and I went for a walk late afternoon to check out the gorge and crocodiles which are everywhere here. The walk is stunning as you enter through a cave and then walk under the massive rock range and over grown trees and plants while watching the crocs. As we were walking 2 crocs attacked fish in the water, we missed it both times unfortunately but you can hear the force of the water moved and see the ripples around the area, scary how fast they move really.

We will head down to Tunnel Creek tomorrow as it is only 30km down the road from here, very much looking forward to that. 

The Ranges

Entry to the walk

Gorgeous Walk

Crocodiles

Sandy bank and ranges along the walk

Reflection in the water